We do support shipping to many international locations. A shipping fee at checkout covers the cost of shipping, duties, tariffs, and taxes. To get a quote, fill out your shipping address on the first page of checkout and then proceed to shipping, which will list all available shipping methods and prices. Once you select an option and proceed to the next page, taxes will also be calculated, and you will be able to see the full total before you enter any payment information. Delivery within the 48 contiguous United States via FedEx Home Delivery or UPS Ground remains free for all Cat Exercise Wheel orders.

Please note that due to the high cost of shipping to Alaska and Hawaii, we are unable to provide free shipping to those two states. Orders for replacement parts and/or accessories are charged a shipping fee regardless of delivery location.

*Any transit times shown during checkout are estimates only and may be subject to change due to unforeseen weather, route, or station delays. Delivery dates cannot be guaranteed and shipping fees are not refundable.

If you live outside of our supported shipping regions, you can check out our dealer page to see if there are any distributors near you. You can also use a forwarding service like to have your order forwarded to you from a US address.

Unfortunately, we are unable to offer shipping to APO/FPO addresses. If you wish to have a third party ship the item to you, we will happily provide you with the dimensions of the box that the item ships in.

Cat Exercise Wheel

There are two factors to keep in mind when considering the wheel for your cat:

The first one is the energy level of your cat. If they have a moderate to high energy level, the wheel will offer them a good outlet for expending some of that energy, and they’ll be more open to trying it out. An example of moderate to high energy is if your cat is inclined to race through the house in short spurts or if your cat engages in a lot of play with other cats, pets, or children in the house. Low-energy cats can still be trained to the wheel, but expect to spend more time training them on it. They may also be less inclined to use it on their own. 

The second thing to consider is the trainability of your cat. A good way to test your cat’s trainability is to see if you can get your cat to repeatedly jump up and down from a chair using a toy or a treat as an incentive. Another indicator is if your cat can anticipate needing to do specific things to receive a reward they want. For example, if they know that they need to go to a specific spot to eat at a certain time of day or act a specific way before receiving a treat or new toy. These are indicators of a cat who is capable of learning how to be trained.

There is no set time period for how long it will take a cat to start using the wheel; every cat is unique and will respond on their own time to training. In most cases, you should expect to spend at least 1-2 weeks acclimating your cat to the wheel and getting them used to moving on it before they’ll start using it on their own. Low-energy or stubborn cats may take longer. In rare cases, typically with young, high energy and high-curiosity cats, you may see results within the first few days. However, it is important to note that this is the exception, not the rule, and there’s no need to feel discouraged if you aren’t seeing results right away. For the best chances of success, make sure you can commit to training your cat for about 5-10 minutes each day for at least a few weeks before purchasing the wheel.

All kinds of breeds have shown interest in the cat wheel! We've received many videos of different kinds of cats on our Facebook page. Some of the breeds in the videos are Bengals, Savannahs, Persians, Sphynx, Siamese, and Munchkins. We've also received plenty of videos with mixed breed and rescue cats that have taken to the wheel, so it isn’t restricted to specific breeds. Please note that regardless of age and breed, almost all cats will need at least some training in order to learn to use the wheel.

We designed the wheel for cats up to 22 lbs, and have tested the wheel with 25 lb weights. The wheel proved remarkably stable and had no problem supporting the weight. With that said, we do recommend sticking with the limit of 22 lbs if possible, just to be safe. If you are concerned about the length of your cat, we suggest consulting with your vet who will be familiar with the size of your cat to compare to the diameter we currently offer.

Heavier-set cats can definitely use the wheel as long as they are under the weight requirements. It may take a little more effort to get them using the wheel, especially if they have a lower energy level than most cats. The key is in the training and making sure that the reward they are receiving is worth the effort until they start to realize how much they can enjoy the wheel without an incentive. Patience and consistency with your training routine are a must!

We've seen quite a few customer videos of heavier-set cats using the wheel, and we've also received email feedback from a couple of customers who have been tracking their cats' weight. Within about a month's time these customers found that their cat had lost between 1-2 lbs. When they took the cat to their vet, the vet also noticed a change in size.

Keep in mind that for a cat to lose 2 lbs in one month, it means that they have lost 10% of their body weight if they average around 20 lbs in size. Every cat is different, with different activity levels and metabolism, so not all cats will lose as much weight in that same time period. You will also want to keep an eye on their waist and their general shape. They may start to get leaner in appearance before the scale starts to reflect the change in weight. Keep in mind that using the wheel will also help build and define muscle mass, so your cat’s weight may not change dramatically, even as they start to look more streamlined and fit. While we cannot guarantee a specific amount of weight loss, the increased activity will help improve the overall health and mental well-being of your cat.

Absolutely! While cats may use their claws a bit instinctively on the wheel when running (especially when getting the hang of it), they don’t actually need them to stay on it. The foam pads on the inner surface provide them with enough traction to keep their footing, even at high speeds. As for tripods and blind cats, we’ve seen videos of them using the wheel just fine. You may need to adjust your training routine a bit to account for any special needs, and the training period may take a little longer, but they can still use the wheel just like any other cat.

If you find you have a skittish cat, or they are hesitant towards the new item in their home, we encourage you to remove the main wheel off of the base stand and lay it flat on its side on the floor. Leave it there for a few days, allowing your timid cat to check out the new item on their own time and to be able to smell it, rub against it, and interact with it down on their level without it moving on them. You can also use treats or toys to encourage them to approach and play around it. When you find they are comfortable around it (or sleeping in it), go ahead and place it back on the base and begin the training process. Start simple in the first few days, first encouraging them to just come near the wheel with a toy or to receive a treat. Then work up to rewarding them for stepping up onto the wheel, and then for actually taking a step to move it. This will gradually build up their confidence in the item so that they no longer get spooked by it.

The cat wheel can be cleaned by taking it outside and spraying it with a hose or wiped down with a wet towel. Foam traction pads are replaceable and do wear with use, depending on how much your cat runs, will determine when they should be replaced.

The traction pads are like big stickers, making it easy to remove them. Simply locate the seam of one pad, grip the edge, and then peel it up and away from the plastic. However, if it's been on the wheel for a long time and doesn't want to release its hold on the plastic, then the best thing to do is to heat the pad with a hairdryer set to low or medium heat (try not to get the plastic itself too hot, as it can start to soften and warp under extreme heat). The warmth will loosen the adhesive and allow the pad to come free. If the pad is mostly just chunks at this point and you can't grab them easily, just press duct tape down over the spots, warm with the dryer, and then peel the tape up—any foam caught under the tape will come along with it. 

To purchase replacement traction foam pads, visit:
Traction Foam Pads

The softness of the foam pads is actually an intentional feature, not a drawback—the cat’s claws need to be able to tear easily through the foam, or else they might get caught while the wheel is in motion. If a cat gets trapped on the wheel when it is in motion, they could potentially end up injured. For that reason, we do not recommend making your own carpet-textured pads to use on the wheel. If your cat is tearing up the foam excessively and it’s causing a mess, you can simply remove the pads and use the wheel without them (you can cover the thin gaps between the track pieces with tape or construction paper).

We recommend a hard surface for the wheelbase for optimum stability; tile, wood, linoleum, or concrete is best. However, the wheel will also usually work well with thinner or low pile carpet. If the carpeting is too thick or soft, the base may rock when the wheel is in motion, exacerbating its wobble. If you notice your wheel struggling to sit still on your carpet, sliding a wooden board under the base will give it a uniform, stable surface for better balance.

The wheel will naturally wobble and sway as it spins, and it isn't possible to eliminate this effect. The wobble is usually more pronounced when the wheel moves slowly, and less noticeable once it gets up to speed. As long as your wheel isn't coming off the track, it's performing normally. If the wheel is popping off the track, the rollerblade wheels likely need adjusting. If the big wheel isn’t spinning easily/stops spinning within 1-2 revolutions of being spun, those rollerblade wheels have likely been overtightened. Simply loosen each rollerblade wheel a bit by twisting the bolts counterclockwise with the Allen wrench until the big wheel can spin freely. If, on the other hand, you notice that the rollerblade wheels are really wiggly and loose where they connect to the base panels, then they’re not quite tight enough. Twist each bolt clockwise until the rollerblade wheel bolt has very little wiggle movement (do not try to eliminate it entirely, or else the rollerblade wheels will end up too tight). 

The wheel’s natural wobble can also be exaggerated by an unstable base. Check to ensure that the base is on a hard, level surface and that the feet are completely in contact with the floor. If the base rests on carpet, slide a wooden board underneath it to improve its stability. If the base is not sitting flat, even when on a level floor, unscrew the threaded rod and adjust the panels so that they sit flat before re-tightening the rod.